The Smarteez on South Africa’s ongoing struggle for equality

The Smarteez on South Africa’s ongoing struggle for equality
Things I Learned Along the Way — Huck’s Fiftieth Anniversary Special collects lessons learned and creative advice from fifty of the most inspiring people we know. Each day we’ll be sharing a new excerpt from the magazine. Today, we hear from young fashion crew The Smarteez, about the creative revolution taking root in Soweto, and how they're pushing into the future while refusing to be beholden to the past.

#48 – The Smarteez

Tucked away in the back streets of Soweto lies a small, cluttered studio. The walls are plastered with tabloid posters pulled from walls around Johannesburg, with headlines like ‘Frozen Chicken Train Wreck’, ‘Graveyard Harvest Time’ and ‘Goat in Sex Scandal.’ Fabric with bright colours and bold patterns is stacked neatly in one corner and smaller pieces are littered around the room. It’s home to Floyd Avenue, Kepi Mngomezulu, Sibu Sithole and Thabo Tsatsinyane, four menswear designers who, as fashion collective The Smarteez, have brought township street style to the catwalk and are helping to change Soweto’s image worldwide.

South Africa is experiencing a creative revolution right now, and some of the freshest ideas and most inspiring people are coming out of former townships like Soweto. The Smarteez are the best-dressed stars in this exciting new wave of art, music, photography and fashion. They create technicolor couture for the first post-apartheid ‘Rainbow Generation’ and are determined to take full advantage of their freedom in the new South Africa by defiantly refusing any constraints on their self-expression.

Floyd was eight when Nelson Mandela became president in South Africa’s first free elections in 1994. For his parent’s generation, Soweto is the spiritual home of the black freedom struggle but after two decades of democracy the area is reinventing itself as a creative powerhouse. For some of the older generation – who vividly remember the brutality of Apartheid – the flamboyant fashion experiments of The Smarteez can be hard to swallow. Floyd’s vintage-inspired pieces reference the past to comment on social issues and he remembers the bitter outcry when he repurposed the traditional pith helmet, a symbol of European colonialism. Floyd acknowledges the weight of past sacrifices, but argues it’s important to push forward. His generation is in a different place. Pointing out the multi-racial staff and customers surrounding him in the smart Braamfontein coffee shop he explains:

“We don’t really have that hate or divide between us, you know? Our parents are very submissive people. They were made to feel inferior and they wanted to pass that down to our generation: this is how you do things, this is how you don’t do things. We’re breaking through those barriers. We are all equal. We need to take pride in who we are and where we are, and that needs to start with supporting each other.”

This is just a short excerpt from Huck’s Fiftieth Special, a collection of fifty personal stories from fifty inspiring lives.

Grab a copy now to read all fifty stories in full. Subscribe to make sure you don’t miss another issue.

Latest on Huck

A forlorn portrait of a Maine fishing village forced to modernise
Culture

A forlorn portrait of a Maine fishing village forced to modernise

Sealskin — Jeff Dworsky’s debut monograph ties his own life on Deer Isle and elegiac family story with ancient Celtic folklore.

Written by: Miss Rosen

Subversive shots of Catholic schoolgirls in ‘80s New York
Culture

Subversive shots of Catholic schoolgirls in ‘80s New York

Catholic Girl — When revisiting her alma mater, Andrea Modica noticed schoolgirls finding forms of self-expression beyond the dress code. Her new photobook documents their intricate styles.

Written by: Isaac Muk

We need to talk about super gonorrhoea
Activism

We need to talk about super gonorrhoea

Test & vaccinate — With infection rates of ‘the clap’ seemingly on the up, as well as a concerning handful of antibiotic resistant cases, Nick Levine examines what can be done to stem the STI’s rise.

Written by: Nick Levine

5 decades ago, Larry Sultan & Mike Mandel redefined photography
Photography

5 decades ago, Larry Sultan & Mike Mandel redefined photography

Evidence — Between 1975 and 1977, the two photographers sifted through thousands of images held by official institutions, condensing them into a game-changing sequence.

Written by: Miss Rosen

Warm portraits of English football fans before the Premier League
Culture

Warm portraits of English football fans before the Premier League

Going to the Match — In the 1991/1992 season, photographer Richard Davis set out to understand how the sport’s supporters were changing, inadvertently capturing the end of an era.

Written by: Isaac Muk

Tbilisi nightclubs to reopen for New Year’s Eve after 40-day strike
Music

Tbilisi nightclubs to reopen for New Year’s Eve after 40-day strike

Dancefloor resistance — Georgian techno havens including BASSIANI and Left Bank have announced parties tonight, having shuttered in solidarity with protests against the country’s government.

Written by: Isaac Muk

Sign up to our newsletter

Issue 81: The more than a game issue

Buy it now