The Travel Diary: Exploring the brutalist backstreets of Split
- Text by Vedran Kolac
- Photography by Vedran Kolac
Based on the cost of Adriatic sea, Split is known for its rich history and unique mix of architecture.
‘Split 3’ is a residential district on the south-east side of the city, filled with a distinct complex of buildings. They were built during the ’70s and ’80s, back when Croatia was still part of Yugoslavia – a sprawling communist state that doesn’t exist anymore.
Although I’m currently based in Zagreb, where I’ve lived for 18 years working as a photographer and developer, I’ve been holidaying in Split for the last half a decade. When I first came, I stayed in a central apartment a few minutes walk from the palace that was built as a residence for Roman emperor Diocletian in third century AD. At that time, I had minimal knowledge about the building, as well as the city’s modern architecture.
When I returned in 2013, I stayed for a month in a high rise in the Pujanke quarter. Living there changed my view of the city. That was when I discovered Split 3 – an abstract, concrete composition of buildings that sit somewhere between sculptures and houses.
The complex was built in 1969 as a reaction to the mono-functional design seen in Zagreb and other cities in Yugoslavia. At the time, the district’s construction was a hot topic in the architecture scene – revitalising the city’s street, squares, and approach to urban planning.
In Split 3, pedestrian streets are oriented east to west, and the buildings on the north side of are taller than those on the south side. This kind of design makes people free to the see both sides of the street, with many settlements located on a hill on the city’s south side. Cars are parked on the north side, behind the taller complexes. Small cubes, made for birds to nest on, lie on the buildings’ facades. Even the surrounding streets, designed by architect Dinko Kovačić, are known for their abstract and sculptural form.
The district’s modernist architecture is mixed with an authentic Mediterranean flavour, which gives you a feel of a traditional Dalmatian street.
More of Vedran Kolac’s work can be seen on his official website and Instagram.
Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.
Latest on Huck
“A party is a microcosm of a nation”: Caleb Femi on the decline of the house party
To celebrate the publication of his new collection ‘The Wickedest’, Isaac Muk caught up with Femi to talk more about the work, the future of the shoobs, and discuss why having it large on a Saturday night should be cherished.
Written by: Isaac Muk
Celebrating 20 years of The Mighty Boosh
A new exhibition takes a look behind the scenes of the iconic show two decades after its BBC3 premiere.
Written by: Isaac Muk
We Run Mountains: Black Trail Runners tackle Infinite Trails
Soaking up the altitude and adrenaline at Europe’s flagship trail running event, high in the Austrian Alps, with three rising British runners of colour.
Written by: Phil Young
The organisation levelling the playing field in the music industry
Founded in 2022, The Name Game is committed to helping female, non-binary and trans people navigate the industry.
Written by: Djené Kaba
Vibrant, rebellious portraits of young Cubans
A new photobook captures the young people redefining Cuban identity amidst increased economic and political turbulence on the Caribbean island.
Written by: Isaac Muk
How one photographer documented her own, ever-changing image
In her new photobook ‘A Woman I Once Knew’, Rosalind Fox Solomon charts the process of getting older through a series of stark self portraits taken over the course of decades.
Written by: Isaac Muk